Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
